St. George’s, on the Island’s Quiet, Eastern Side, is Experiencing a Renaissance
With its pink sand beaches and eye-catching pastel towns, Bermuda has always been an ideal destination for families with mixed vacation preferences. With flights from New York clocking in at just over two hours, you can leave JFK in the morning and be on the beach by lunch.
ST. Regis Bermuda Resort
St. George’s, a community of under 2,000 people situated on the eastern tip of the fishhook-shaped archipelago, has been a British outpost since 1609 when sailors shipwrecked off the coast. For many years, the town was a popular port destination for cruises, but when cruise ships began outgrowing the town’s smaller harbor, the tourism economy contracted.
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Over the last few years, the town has reopened its doors to business. For those who are part of it, they see what’s growing as a true renaissance.
Where to Stay
ST. Regis Bermuda Resort
“St. George’s is where Bermuda’s soul lives. The town is rich in history and culture and offers a charm you can’t find anywhere else,” says Leslie Prea, General Manager of The St. Regis Bermuda Resort. Since the hotel’s opening in 2021, this celebration of the neighboring community has presided over the property, which brings the beachside amenities of a tropical getaway beside a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Staying by St. George’s, there’s no need for taxi rides across the island––the walk is barely 20 minutes.
The hotel is the only property to sit on the easternmost shore of the “fishhook.” By contrast, the majority of the island’s resorts, from the Rosewood to the Fairmont Southampton Princess are located at points south of the airport. While all of the island’s coastline is public, St. Catherine’s Beach is a secluded place for guests to tan, swim and sip on a Dark and Stormy, one of the island’s signature drinks.
For golfers, the island is a popular vacation destination for its top-notch courses, and this May, The St. Regis partnered with Golfzon Leadbetter to unveil a new golf academy at the resort’s Five Forts Golf Club. The partnership provides local youth with opportunities for college scholarships, while international guests can get elite training at the resort’s 18-hole, par-62 course, which boasts views over the turquoise Atlantic and the East End’s historic Fort St. Catherine.
For Foodies
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Though Bermuda may appear to leave the world behind, a global palette informs its culinary offerings. BLT Steak NY serves surf-and-turf oceanfront. Prime cuts of steak are complemented by Dover sole and local snapper with piperade basquaise.
One of the island’s signature treats is the Bermuda Fish Sandwich. Every hole-in-the-hall has their own spin on this classic—Lina serves theirs with battered and fried wahoo, tartar sauce, coleslaw, romaine and sliced tomato. Across the island, there’s generally consensus on one thing: the sandwich is best served on raisin bread—the sweetness of the cinnamon and nutmeg cut through the sandwich’s savory flavors. For local, no-frills dining, look no farther than Wahoo’s Bistro and Patio, which is known for their fish sandwich, and Swizzle Inn, the dive bar where the island’s famous Rum Swizzle is said to have originated.
One of the town’s newest additions perches cliffside, the “MediterrAsian” Achilles. Sushi lovers will enjoy the chirashi don with fresh yellowtail, hamachi and crisply sliced radish, while those looking to eat Mediterranean can find fattoush, melitzanes and local catches alla Pantesca. The Japanese cotton cheesecake is a cloudy nightcap, flavored with yuzu and drizzled in a miso caramel sauce for a refreshing blend of sweet and tang.
For Yachters
Bermuda native KJ Maybury says that “St George’s offers visitors a glimpse into the past. Homes and buildings dating back to the 1600s and cobblestone streets speak to early colonial settlement and governance of the island as this east end parish was Bermuda’s first capital.” While he might know the community well from his upbringing, he often takes a different view on the island—from his vantage at Traveler Charters, he sees things best on the water.
Groups can book Traveler’s 50-foot yacht for days exploring the island’s stunning waters and coves. Spending so much time at sea, Maybury has collected a number of favorite spots: Paradise Lakes, King’s Point, Admiralty House, Gilbert’s Bay, Mangrove Bay and the Vixen Shipwreck. Unlike its neighbors in the Caribbean, Bermuda, located about 700 miles off the coast of North Carolina, tends to be a seasonal destination. However, in the quiet months, Maybury takes guests whale watching.
Thrill seekers can jet ski or stand-up paddleboard, and gentle explorers can take to the Atlantic to snorkel or swim. And for those who just want to luxuriate to some lazy yacht rock, they can find a spot on the ship’s bow and enjoy a fresh-cooked meal from a private chef, champagne flowing.
Luxury Inside the Bermuda Triangle
If Traveler takes guests on the water, Lili Bermuda takes them below the surface. Since 1928, the perfumery has been crafting delicate and refined fragrances that pay homage to the island’s history and culture. Mary Celestia, one of their signature scents, tells a story from deep within the Bermuda Triangle—so deep, it begins underwater.
In 2011, marine archaeologists recovered two bottles of Piesse and Lubin London perfume from the Mary Celestia, which sank on a journey between the island and Charleston, South Carolina in 1864. Visitors to the perfumery can learn about its history, tour the property or enjoy afternoon tea on site. Perfumer Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone also leads private perfume making workshops, taking guests step-by-step through the art of fragrance making inside of the historic workshop.
For Local Flavor
ST. Regis Bermuda Resort
Beyond the food and outdoor thrills, one of the best ways to get to know St. George’s is the simplest: on foot.
“We have everything you would want to have a great holiday,” said Kristin White, who’s a local icon. The proprietor of Long Story Short, a gift and bookshop in downtown St. George’s, she recently filmed a pilot and regularly leads group history tours of her community. She began giving tours of St. George’s in 2015 through her work with local culture and heritage organizations.
While she takes visitors through the island’s past, she sees how alive the contemporary scene is, as well. “It’s so vibrant and amazing here,” she said. “We’re in a major, major renaissance for the town. Even my son who’s in his late 20s and has lived in St. George’s his whole life says, ‘This is our time now.’”
“There’s just an incredible energy,” she added. “It’s a small town, so there’s this friendliness. There’s this light. You’re walking around, you can see everyone’s waving and saying, ‘Hey.’ I never feel like I can just ride my bicycle home. I’m stopping, someone says, ‘Come in, have a drink.’ There’s always something to do, and I never know what my day is going to end up being in St George’s.”