Switzerland’s Scenic Lavaux Region Produces Carefully Crafted Wines Prized by Collectors
Even on a drizzly, overcast day, the northern shores of Lake Geneva, in the UNESCO-protected winemaking region of Lavaux in Switzerland, seem to vibrate with life. Almost as soon as temperatures tick upward in the spring, the vines of the terraced vineyards, which stretch for nearly 20 miles, unfurl vivid new green leaves—and the promise of crisp, versatile wines that are highly valued among locals and collectors.
Although Switzerland isn’t top of mind for most American wine drinkers, viticulture is nothing new in Lavaux, part of the country’s Vaud canton, or state. In fact, grape growing along Lake Geneva may date as far back as Roman times. The tumbling, scenic terraces of today were established in the eleventh century by Benedictine and Cistercian monks, the original vintners who spread winemaking expertise across Europe.
According to Johan Strazzeri, sommelier at the Hôtel Royal Savoy Lausanne, part of the Bürgenstock Collection of luxury hotels in Switzerland and London, the terraced plantings “not only shape the landscape but also influence the viticulture itself. Due to the narrow, sloping terraces, a large portion of the grape harvest is still carried out by hand.”
The attention to detail is evident in wines from this exceptionally picturesque region, set along the 224-square-mile, comma-shaped Lake Geneva, where speedboats, yachts and ferries putter over the glassy surface. Nearly 200 vineyards cluster among the 1,800 acres of the Lavaux, where the mild climate and clay and limestone soils combine with thermal heat from the sun’s reflection off the lake to form an ideal incubator for healthy grapes, most commonly Chasselas, a native white Swiss varietal. (Petite Arvine, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc are other popular whites.) Familiar reds include Pinot Noir, Gamay, Merlot and Gamaret, a Swiss cross of Gamay and Reichensteiner.
In the heart of the region, Domaine du Daley, the oldest registered brand, dating back to 1432, alights like a rare bird atop a slope. Its vineyard and winery were under the ownership of the Fribourg-based St. Nicholas chapter of the Benedictines until 1937, when it was purchased by a layman, with renowned Swiss vintner Julien Séverin at the helm. In 2003, Séverin’s son Marcel assumed ownership of the domaine, with Marcel’s son, Cyril Séverin, who has a science background, installed as winemaker.
Today, Domaine du Daley grows twelve grape varietals that are pressed and blended into fifteen different wines. The five crisper varieties that make up its “tradition” range are aged 10 to 11 months in oak barrels. The Grand Reserve collection, which are wines harvested from older vines, are aged from 11 to 22 months and have more pronounced tannins and complexity.
“We are quality oriented, small production,” explains Cyril Séverin. “We use only our own grapes, and ferment, press and blend everything here.” The sunny terroir and artisanal tradition are apparent in the bottle, from dry, delicate Chasselas Grande Reserve to juicy, floral, Gamaret-based Cuvée Rosé, and the complex, unfiltered blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah in Mersyca Grande Reserve. Domaine du Daley’s collection has found a fervent audience in Asian markets, especially among Chinese and Japanese chefs, restaurateurs and collectors, who visit frequently to stock up on their favorite Swiss vintages.
Currently, only one percent of all Swiss wine, from six different growing regions around the country, is exported. As for the other 99 percent? The Swiss prefer to keep it to themselves.
At the Hotel Royal Savoy, which features 9,000 selections from around the world, about 20 percent of the list is from Lavaux—including two from Domaine du Daley: Pinot Noir Tradition and Chardonnay Grande Reserve. Among the most popular selections at their fine-dining restaurant, La Brasserie du Royal, are Dézaley La Médinette from Domaine Louis Bovard and Dézaley “Chemin de Fer” from Domaine Massy.
To get acquainted with Swiss wines, including those from the Lavaux, you can book a wine workshop at the Royal Savoy, which explores different grape varieties and food pairings. Or make reservations for an oenological dinner, with Strazzeri’s team expertly pouring accompaniments to the local-foods-focused menu.
From there, you can head out into some of the Lavaux’s most respected vineyards and cellars, including Domaine Bovy, Luc Massey and Clos de la République. If you’re short on time, Lavaux Vinorama is a one-stop shop of sorts, with 300 wines from all over the region, plus wine tours, tastings and seminars. Or treat yourself and your friends to a private tasting or catered dinner on Domaine du Daley’s scenic terrace, or in its brand-new tasting room.
The region is also home to the legendary Fête des Vignerons, a once-per-generation wine festival in lakefront Vevey—the next one is due to take place around 2030—and the Fête de Vendanges, an annual September harvest event in the village of Lutry, where thousands of people converge to celebrate wine, Swiss tradition and community.
Of the Lavaux, Strazzeri says, “We are fortunate to experience all four seasons here, and each wine suits a different moment. Lavaux wines truly offer something for every occasion.”