Pearls. Power. Punk.

In the 1980s, jewelry was all about glamor—excessive, sparkling and unapologetic. America’s British Sweetheart, Princess Diana, charmed in more ways than one. The Princess of Wales’ eye-catching stones enlivened her dignified royal elegance. Cyndi Lauper made her mark, too. The singer’s crimson red locks and mixed metals gave way to an ostentatious identity. Madonna’s gaudy jewels complemented her pop-star persona, and “Like A Virgin” even inspired a rebellious moment. The goth punk era began with a nod to Catholicism—encouraging a transition to heavy-duty chains and cross pendants.

Forty-five years later, our fashion runways are still taking cues from the past. With customization at the top of shopper’s lists, jewelry has begun to take a fresh new turn in 2025. Obscure color combinations form head-turning creations that resonate with eclectic types and classics alike. The return of “vintage revival” inspires a new approach to styling. We are seeing the bold choices of previous decades, namely the 80s and the 20s, sealed with a touch of bohemian craftsmanship for a look all its own. Forget the dainty draw of micro mini hoops—we’re settling into the obscurity of the “maximalist,” or more is more. It’s an era like never before, placing a positive spin on elegant kitsch. Let’s dive into the decades—and the pieces—that are reimagining our jewelry collections and giving us nostalgia.

One hundred years ago, it was a time of significant social change. The post-war decade gave way to political turbulence and the restrictive prohibition era. As difficult as it was, the 1920s became a truly liberating time to be alive. Sneaking into underground speakeasies in flashy sequins and jazzy silhouettes was a thrill of its own. This decade in particular set the stage for some of today’s best jewelry. The most notable one that slipped into our jewelry boxes this past year was undeniably chic—none other than the classic pearl.

In May 2024, Tiffany & Co. released a jewelry collaboration with American musician Pharrell Williams, called the “Titan” collection. Inspired by mythological motifs and accompanied by soft pearls, there’s a polarity effect going on, and it’s quite beautiful, but it’s far from the traditional pearls of the 1920s. Sharp arrow-like edges that resemble Poseidon’s trident incorporate structure and fearlessness into an otherwise refined style. These unexpected extremes in a collection are just one example of this new approach to design—laying the framework for old and new in exceptionally crafty ways.

But Pharrell Williams isn’t the only man gravitating towards the softer side of jewelry. All-star outfielder Joc Pederson was one of the first male sports figures spotted with a strand while playing for the Atlanta Braves’ 2021 World Series title. Almost immediately after, the precious adornment was seen on famous musicians like Elton John, Harry Styles, Shawn Mendes and French actor and Call Me By Your Name star, Timothée Chalamet. A 2023 article by Forbes magazine said, “It’s a sign that pearls are breaking their female-centric boundaries into the gender-fluid mainstream.” The eponymous pearl jeweler, Mikimoto, had also remarked that pearls for men were “here to stay,” and almost four years later, the trend still lives on.

Mikimoto

Industry aficionados are calling this time the “pearl renaissance” where jewelry designers are reinventing the lustrous jewel to feel less like an artifact from grandma’s jewelry box—prudish and safe—and more unpredictable and alluring. Pearls with an irregular shape, known as baroque pearls, continue to amuse this year with updated iterations. At the Spring/Summer 2025 Bottega Veneta show, these pearls took on a surprising green hue accented with golden beads. Other jewelry brands, namely Jalil Johnson and Mateo, put their best foot forward at the show with shape and style to play up this handmade, artisan approach. Jalil Johnson’s “At Present” collection is a nod to the vintage look, incorporating the crisp lines of geometry accented with an irregular pearl and a touch of cobalt blue. Mateo leaned into 80s influence with a standout style—14 karat gold diamond hoops with a flashy pearl drop accent. The style is designed to attach the pearl for a customizable effect, or to opt for wearing just the sparkling hoops.

Young designers are ramping up to this idea of bold behavior with classic influence, too. A relatively-new jewelry startup brand, Roseate, holds true value in pearls. The brand was started by a previous Tiffany’s chief merchandising officer. With years of prior experience, The New York-based Roseate claims to have a clear look at the jewelry market and the needs of the customer. “We learned all the rules. We founded this brand to break them,” as stated on Roseate’s about section of their website. Roseate’s passion lies in sustainability and believes that saltwater pearls are the only real precious (and sustainable) gems. With a strong mission statement and a fascinating reach, this brand and others like it, are expected to take the industry by storm this year. With collections that allude to nature, the brand’s whimsical essence lures in customers seeking something fresh in a pearl adornment. It’s airy and effortlessly daring.

Roseate

While the 80s incorporated less subtlety in jewelry than the 20s pristine pearl, the former decade remains revered in its own way. The dramatic effect of the 80s gave way to the concept of playing up any piece in a collection without adhering to limits. Layering yellow gold curb chains, investing in the thickest hoop earrings, and flaunting statement button earrings were just a few favorite ways to stand out. Today, we are catching glimpses of 80s influence with a touch of elegance, but it’s not lacking in potency. The Spring runway was brimming with color and extravagance. Fans marveled at vintage Briony Raymond Estate collar necklaces against a classic white button down and blue jeans to make quite an impression. One of the best runway takeaways was centered around embellished wrists. Slim watch pairings were having a moment. If you’d like to replicate the look, we suggest Cartier’s Panthère de Cartier watch and Chanel’s Première Édition Originale watch. It’s a duo that’s unexpected, yet equally polished.

Celebrities have alluded to pushing the limits for years, and it has finally made its way to the jewelry market. Who could forget the Hadid sisters in 80s-inspired sequin hoops, Dua Lipa’s Versace curb chain moment, and perhaps Swedish model Elsa Hosk in Prada’s recycled and sustainable Eternal Gold? There’s plenty to marvel at, but the opulence of these decades continues to inspire us, enticing us with nuances of the past. Our culture shapes the way we wear jewelry, as we reimagine the decadence of each era and make it our own. Timeless trends never fade.